This palatial 300-year-old house once belonged to the Governor of Macau, but like many of Goa’s colonial relics, it was abandoned and left to ruin. Thankfully, this one was saved and has been lovingly restored, with such meticulous attention to detail that it earned a Unesco Heritage award. Some of the windowpanes are made of mother-of-pearl and the walls are traditional shell and lime plaster; there are marble and porcelain details, tall windows with shades and shutters, and a cool inner courtyard lined with pillars. Antique furniture mixes well with contemporary wrought-iron pieces designed by the owner Varun Sood.

On the doorstep of Siolim village and the Chapora River, the grand old manor whisks you back to the days of Portuguese Goa. But the rooms are splendid and the atmosphere is easy, laid-back and homely - the ideal place to relax and unwind away from the crowds (the nearest beach is a 10-minute drive). There are pretty gardens and a swimming pool. And Little Siolim, a short walk through the village, offers a villa annexe with 3 more rooms for B&B or self-catering.

Rooms

During Varun Sood’s careful restoration, the manor’s original 24 rooms were remodelled to create 7 large guestrooms (including 3 suites), all named after historical seaports.

The elegant, airy rooms - all different - are furnished with tiled or polished wood floors, beamed ceilings, antique tables, wardrobes and objets d’arts. Contemporary four-poster beds are draped in muslin and dressed with embroidered silks; hand-painted friezes on the whitewashed walls are a reflection of the patterned terracotta floor tiles. There are ceiling fans in every room (some also have air conditioning), but either way, a natural breeze keeps the place cool.

The equally large ensuite bathrooms have showers - some of them with pretty sculpted walls, others with rather unsightly plastic cabinets, but all with modern western fittings. Telephones and minibars have purposefully been left out of the rooms to maintain the atmosphere of a private period manor. Tea and coffee-making facilities are, however, provided (a kettle, cups and a little Chinese box containing a mix of teas).

Of the 3 suites, the huge Macao Suite (on the first floor) is favoured by honeymooners. The main room is truly vast, with 6 tall windows overlooking the front garden. The Malabar Suite (on the ground floor), has 2 large bedrooms, so it's ideal for a family or groups of friends.

Nearby, at the entrance of the village, is Little Siolim, a separate 3-bedroom villa, which is available for individual room rentals on a B&B basis, or for groups of 2-7 by the night, weekend or week. To the front is a lazy veranda wrapped around ochre walls; to the rear is a secluded lawned garden.

Inside are the same hallmarks of the owner's eye for design: gorgeous cherry-red and orange fabrics, sleigh beds, some antique pieces of furniture, a sleek modern kitchen... and not an ounce of clutter. Each of the 3 double bedrooms (2 kingsize, 1 standard double) has air conditioning and an ensuite bathroom (the 'master room' has a funky sunken bath on a tiled platform); all feature a TV with a DVD/CD player, and all lead onto a courtyard with a pool (beautifully lit at night), which is open to the sky. This flows into a semi-outdoor sitting/dining room with terracotta floors and wicker loungers. An island unit separates the living space from the well-equipped kitchen. The villa comes with a housekeeper and the optional use of a cook (groups can self-cater if they prefer).

A downside with Little Siolim is its location - it sits on the busy road which descends into the village, en route to the northern beaches. But the hum of cars and scooters dies down at night.

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